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Layout and Design
Besakih is a very complex architectural structure venerating the holy Hindu trinity. Via a series of long stairways, the temple group ascends parallel ridges toward Gunung Agung, the honored birthplace of Bali's deities, tantamount to heaven. The temple is continually enlarged as municipalities, regencies, and wealthy honored Brahman families add more shrines. In fact, each caste and kin group, as well as various sects, artisan guilds, and aristocratic families, maintain its own temple inside the complex. About 22 separate sanctuaries contain a befuddling array of over 60 temples and 200 distinct structures (a map is posted at the top of the road leading from the parking lot). Given the Balinese passion for covering surfaces with carving or paint, it's remarkable most of Besakih's sanctuaries are constructed simply of wood. The sun god (Bhatara Surya), the god of the sea (Ratu Waruna), and every major figure in the Balinese pantheon are represented here. Each of the island's nine regencies also maintains its own temple within this complex. Curiously, the small, relatively inconsequential 'rajadoms' like Blahbatuh and Sukawati are assigned proportionally large sections, while major regencies like Badung and Gianyar are meagerly represented. The historical importance of the Gelgel kingdom is evident, however, by its assignment to the innermost, central courtyard. Beyond a great unadorned split gate, a broad terrace leads to a 'gapura', which opens onto 50 black, slender, pagoda-like 'meru' temples. The more roofs, the higher-ranking the god or deified ancestor to whom the 'meru' is dedicated. Long flights of stone steps lead to the main central temple, Pura Penataran Agung, which consists of six rising terraces built on a slope, all connected by gateways. In the third inner court of the central temple is the 'sanggar agung', a beautifully decorated 17th-century triple lotus stone throne representing the divine triad. This is the ritual center of Besakih. Through the clear, fresh air of the topmost terrace, over 900 meters above sea level, is an unsurpassed view over spectacular rice terraces. Behind, thick white clouds hover over Gunung Agung. Besakih's three main temples, which stretch for over a kilometer, are Pura Penataran Agung (in the symbolic center), dedicated to the paramount god Shiva, or Sanghyang Widhi Wasa; Pura Kiduling Kreteg, honoring Brahma; and Pura Batu Madeg, dedicated to Vishnu. The longitudinal axis of this complex points directly 'kaja', toward Gunung Agung's peak to the northeast. Farther up the mountain is another compound, Pura Gelap, the 'Thunderbolt Temple'. Highest, in the pine forests of Agung's southwest slope, is austere Pura Pengabengan! |
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